this one

every now and then i have these moment where i become completely overwhelmed with life. i feel stressed, anxious, over-worked, tired, and weak.  i've related this feeling to that of falling off my surfboard and being tossed around by the waves.  it is turbulent, there is darkness, no air, and no direction. you just have to let the force of the wave push you until you can regain control. the worst part about this scenario is when you do gain control, reach the surface and find your breath, another wave comes and it happens all over again.

yesterday, i had one of the best surf sessions of my life.   lauren and i tandem-ed on a twelve foot board until the sky was dark and my legs were raw.  it was one of the most beautiful and perfect nights.  the sky was a cotton-candy blue and pink and the sun's reflection on the water was illuminating.  compared to the heaviness i have been feeling lately, i felt light and whole.  the waves, the sun, the rising moon, and good company were what i needed to start this week off right.

i've learned a lot of life lessons through surfing---in the end no reef cut, fall, wedgie, or amount of swallowed salt water can beat the feeling of being in the wave on and on my board. 

one of my favorite quotes will always be:
"you can't stop the waves, but you can learn how to surf"