children of the sun

Tuesday, May 21, 2013

i love the summer months here in hawaii.
small waves, the warm sun, and good friends-- it's all one needs to be happy.
 
 

my love's an ocean

Tuesday, April 16, 2013

i'm in love with how these disposables turned out.

 

the shiner

Friday, October 19, 2012


i feel like i got hit in the face with a surfboard.
oh wait...

my feelings exactly

Thursday, June 21, 2012

i wanna go surfing.

you are the ocean

Sunday, June 10, 2012

i just woke up from a very long nap, i dreamt i was back on my little island of oahu. everything was how i left it almost two months ago and i was happy, so very happy.

i was passing chun's reef while riding the bus and the waves were just my size.  the scene was picturesque.  but, for some reason i didn't have my board, i wasn't in my swimsuit and then it started to rain.

what was the perfect situation, became a missed opportunity.

feeling a bit defeated, i got back on the bus with the hope that there would be another day with even better waves than the ones i had just witnessed.

thinking i had missed the wave of a lifetime, i woke feeling a bit depressed. 

i think these types of experiences happen on a regular basis in life.  things seem to make sense, to be be beautiful, even flawless and then the rain comes, we forget our swimsuits or our board is nowhere in sight.

life and surfing have a lot in common.  there's plenty of waiting involved, some real nasty reef cuts that await you, rough conditions, crappy falls, and frustrating people to deal with but, nothing beats the feeling of a good ride.

that perfect wave makes it all worth it in the end.  

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