i just woke up from a very long nap, i dreamt i was back on my little island of oahu. everything was how i left it almost two months ago and i was happy, so very happy.
i was passing chun's reef while riding the bus and the waves were just my size. the scene was picturesque. but, for some reason i didn't have my board, i wasn't in my swimsuit and then it started to rain.
what was the perfect situation, became a missed opportunity.
feeling a bit defeated, i got back on the bus with the hope that there would be another day with even better waves than the ones i had just witnessed.
thinking i had missed the wave of a lifetime, i woke feeling a bit depressed.
i think these types of experiences happen on a regular basis in life. things seem to make sense, to be be beautiful, even flawless and then the rain comes, we forget our swimsuits or our board is nowhere in sight.
life and surfing have a lot in common. there's plenty of waiting involved, some real nasty reef cuts that await you, rough conditions, crappy falls, and frustrating people to deal with but, nothing beats the feeling of a good ride.
that perfect wave makes it all worth it in the end.